In her inspiring new book,
Lidia Cooks from the Heart of Italy, Lidia Bastianich awakens in us a new respect for food, and for the people who produce it in the little-known parts of Italy that she explores. All of the recipes reflect the regions from which they spring, and in translating them to our home kitchens, Lidia passes on time-honored techniques and wonderful, uncomplicated recipes for dishes bursting with different regional flavors--the kind of elemental, good family cooking that is particularly appreciated today.
Enjoy this sample recipe from Lidia's new book, with a sauce that is from the old fishing port of Termoli:
SPAGHETTI WITH CALAMARI, SCALLOPS AND SHRIMP
Spaghetti di Tornola
Serves 6
For me, there's no better way to dress spaghetti than with a fresh seafood sauce. And this sauce, from
the old fishing port of Termoli in Molise, is as simple and delicious as any. In the restaurants by the
docks in Termoli (near the old citadel called Tornola), just-caught seafood is served in a brodetto. You
eat the seafood, and then the kitchen will toss spaghetti into the sauce you've left in your bowl. In my
version of spaghetti di Tornola, the calamari, scallops, and shrimp are part of the pasta dressing, but
you can eat the brodetto in separate courses, Termoli-style, if you like. In summer, I use my mother's
home-grown, sun-ripened cherry tomatoes to make an exceptional sauce, but in winter, a couple of
cups of canned plum tomatoes make a fine substitute.
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for the pasta pot
half pound medium calamari, cleaned
half pound sea scallops (preferably "dry," not soaked in preservative)
1 pound large shrimp
one-fourth cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus 2 tablespoons more for finishing the pasta
6 plump garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
4 cups cherry tomatoes, halved; or 2 cups canned Italian plum tomatoes, crushed
one-fourth teaspoon peperoncino flakes, or to taste
1 pound spaghetti
one-fourth cup chopped fresh basil
1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley
Recommended equipment: A large pot, 8-quart capacity, for cooking the pasta; a heavy-bottomed
skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger.
Fill the large pot with salted water (at least 6 quarts water with 1 tablespoon salt), and heat to
a boil.
To prepare the seafood: Cut the calamari bodies, including the tentacles, into half-inch rings. Pull
off the side muscle or "foot" from the scallops and discard. Remove the shells, tails, and digestive
veins from the shrimp; rinse and pat dry.
Pour the olive oil into the skillet, set it over medium-high heat, scatter in the sliced garlic, and
cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to sizzle and color, about 1 to 2 minutes. Dump in the
cherry tomatoes, sprinkle on the teaspoon salt and the peperoncino, and cook for about 5 minutes,
stirring and tossing tomatoes in the pan, until softened and sizzling in their juices but still intact.
Start cooking the pasta first and the seafood right after, so they are ready at the same time. Drop
the spaghetti into the boiling water, stir, and return the water to a boil.
As it cooks, scatter the calamari rings and tentacles in the pan with the tomatoes, and get them
sizzling over medium-high heat. Let the pieces cook for a minute or two, then toss in the scallops,
and spread them out to heat and start sizzling quickly. After they've cooked for a couple of minutes,
toss in the shrimp, ladle in a cup of boiling pasta water, stir the seafood and sauce together, bring to
a steady simmer, and cook for 2 or 3 minutes, just until the shrimp turn pink and begin to curl.
As soon as the spaghetti is barely al dente, lift it from the pot, drain briefly, and drop into the
skillet. Toss the pasta and the simmering sauce together for a minute or two, until the spaghetti is
nicely coated with sauce and perfectly al dente, and the seafood is distributed throughout the pasta.
Turn off the heat, sprinkle on the basil and parsley, and drizzle on another 2 tablespoons olive oil.
Toss well, heap the spaghetti into warm bowls, giving each portion plenty of seafood, and serve
immediately.